Taming the Threads: A Guide to Washing Vintage Wool Garments

Vintage wool garments hold a special charm, whispering stories of a bygone era. But keeping them looking and feeling their best can be a daunting task. Fear not, fellow vintage enthusiasts! With a little know-how, you can ensure your woolen wonders stay fresh for years to come.

Before the Dip: Assess and Prepare

• Check the Care Label (if present): This golden tag holds the key. Look for symbols indicating handwashing,dry cleaning, or machine washing on a specific setting.
• Material Matters: Pure wool is generally more forgiving than wool blends. However, always err on the side of caution for delicate blends.
• Inspect for Weaknesses: Look for tears, loose seams, or weak stitching. These areas require extra care during washing to avoid further damage.

The Washing Method: Choosing Your Path

1. The Gentle Hand Wash:

This is the safest option for most vintage wool garments, especially those without care labels. Here’s how:

• Fill a basin or tub with cool (lukewarm at most) water. Use lukewarm water only for very soiled garments.
• Add a wool-specific detergent: Look for a gentle, pH-neutral formula designed for wool. Avoid harsh detergents or regular laundry soap.
• Turn the garment inside out. This protects the outer surface from abrasion.
• Submerge the garment and gently swish it for a few minutes. Avoid vigorous agitation or scrubbing.
• Soak for no more than 15 minutes. Excessive soaking can weaken the fibers.
• Rinse thoroughly with cool water. Change the rinse water several times to ensure all soap residue is removed.
• Don’t wring! Excess wringing can cause the garment to lose shape. Instead, gently squeeze out excess water.

2. The Machine Wash (for the Daring):

Only attempt this if the care label allows, and for sturdier knits. Here are some key points:

• Use the gentlest cycle available, ideally a “wool” setting. This typically involves slow agitation and cool water.
• Place the garment in a mesh laundry bag. This provides extra protection against snags and tears.
• Skip the bleach and fabric softener. These can damage wool fibers.
• Minimize spinning or use the lowest spin setting. Excessive spinning can cause shrinkage and felting.

Drying is Key: Respect the Shape

• Never hang wet wool garments. The weight of the water can stretch them out of shape.
• Lay the garment flat on a clean towel. Reshape it gently to its original dimensions.
• Roll up the towel with the garment inside to absorb excess moisture. Press down gently without wringing.
• Air dry flat in a cool, well-ventilated area. Avoid direct sunlight or heat sources, which can damage the wool.
• Do Not Wring: Wringing can stretch and distort the shape of your garment. Instead, gently squeeze out excess water and lay the garment flat on a clean towel.
• Air Drying: Allow the garment to air dry completely in a well-ventilated area away from direct sunlight or heat sources. Do not tumble dry, as this can shrink and damage the wool.
• Shaping: Once the garment is almost dry, reshape it gently to its original form. You can use a towel to absorb any remaining moisture.
• Ironing (Optional): If necessary, iron the garment on a low heat setting with a pressing cloth to remove any wrinkles. Use a damp cloth between the iron and the wool to prevent scorching.

Bonus Tip: Freshen Up Without Washing

For lightly soiled garments, consider a gentle refresh:

• Air it out: Hang the garment outside on a breezy day, away from direct sunlight.
• Spot clean: For small stains, use a wool-safe stain remover following the product instructions.
• Steaming: A gentle steam can help remove wrinkles and freshen up the garment.

Honey, I shrunk the Vintage:

If you’ve collected vintage clothing, especially vintage wool garments, there’s a high chance that you’ve accidentally shrunk your garment. It’s totally ok and it happens to many of us (we should really start a support group). Don’t despair! There’s a chance you can salvage your shrunk vintage wool garment. Here’s what you can try:

The Conditioning Cure:

1. Gather your supplies:
   • Lukewarm water
   • Wool-specific conditioner (or mild hair conditioner)
   • Large basin or tub
   • Clean towels
2. Prepare the bath: Fill the basin with lukewarm water and add a generous amount of conditioner (around 1/3 cup for a large basin).
3. Submerge and Soak: Gently submerge your shrunk garment and let it soak for 15-30 minutes. The conditioner helps relax the wool fibers.
4. Gently Does It: Don’t wring or agitate the garment.
5. The Stretch: After soaking, remove the garment and gently squeeze out excess water. Lay it flat on a clean towel.
6. Reshape with Care: Here comes the magic! Gently pull and stretch the garment back to its original size,focusing on areas like sleeves and hems. Be patient and avoid overstretching, as this can damage the fibers.
7. Roll and Rest: Once reshaped, roll the garment in a clean towel to remove more moisture. Don’t wring!
8. Air Dry Flat: Lay the garment flat on another clean towel to air dry in a cool, well-ventilated area. Avoid direct sunlight or heat sources.

Important Note: This method may not work for severely shrunk garments or those that have felted (become dense and matted).

Additional Tips:

• Test a hidden area first: Before applying the conditioner all over, try it on a small, inconspicuous area of the garment to check for colorfastness.
• Start small: Don’t be overly ambitious with stretching. Work in small increments to avoid damaging the wool.
• Patience is key: The process may take some time. Let the garment dry completely before assessing the results.
• Store Properly: Store your vintage wool garments in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. Use breathable storage containers like cedar chests or cotton bags.
• Moth Protection: Place moth repellent sachets or cedar blocks among your stored wool garments to deter moths and other pests.
• Professional Care: If your vintage wool garment is particularly delicate or has extensive damage, consider consulting a professional textile conservator for specialized cleaning and restoration.

If the conditioning method doesn’t work, or you’re unsure about tackling it yourself, consider consulting a professional dry cleaner who specializes in delicate fabrics. They might be able to salvage your beloved vintage piece.

Remember: When in doubt, it’s always better to err on the side of caution. If the garment is particularly valuable or delicate, consider professional dry cleaning. With a little care and attention, your vintage wool treasures will continue to tell their stories for generations to come.

If you are looking for good but gentle laundry soap for your vintage, I use and recommend the following:
–Retro Clean
–Nellie’s Laundry Soda
–Eucalan
–Molly’s Suds

Retro Clean Review

Please Note: This is not a sponsored post. All opinions and thoughts expressed are solely my own and not influenced in any way. This page contains affiliate links/codes which aids in funding future blog posts. Please don’t feel obliged to use any of my links if you don’t want to.

Photos by Engin Akyurt
Photo by Madison Inouye
Photos by Karolina Ostrzolek